My right tail light is now as bright as the left, I have a right signal light and a right brake light. I tapped it back down and it works great now. The socket looked fine where it was pressed to the housing but I still carefully and slightly pried up one section of the socket rim and scraped underneath it. I cleaned up both just to eliminate any problems there. I started by pulling the housing to bumper bolts which had very rusty heads and washers. Next I touched the jumper between the tail light housing and the socket and once again the filaments switched.
The tail light filament was flashing dimly and as soon as I made contact it stopped and the stop/signal filament started flashing brightly. I clipped a jumper to the bumper and then touched the lamp socket with the right signal on. You really had to 'pay tenntion" to get everything properly grounded, and it used to be comedic funny to see how many of those "weren't working"Īs soon as I read your responses I slapped my head. The REALLY interesting cars used to be the 60's Chevys, which had some of the lamps in the quarters, on some in the trunk LID. So now power comes to the tail filament, through the filament, through that bulb's signal filament, up front to the signal switch, through the switch to the opposite side wire, back to the rear to the opposite side signal filament, through that filament, and finally to ground. In this case, the only thing "to ground" is the other rear signal, because with the signal lever centered, both rear lamps are connected together to function as brake lamps. With tail/ head "on" and no brakes or signal applied, the path is reversed. This is because you have +12 on one side of the signal filament, through the filament, through the tail filament, and +12 on the other end of the tail filament -no current flow. If you simply turn on the park/ head lights, NOW you have tail light power on the tail light filament, so ungrounded socket "bulb" goes out. With head/ tail lights off, and you either apply brakes or signal, the juice goes through the signal filament, and cannot get to ground, so it goes "in series" through the (unpowered) tail filament, and because all the rest of the park/ tail/ marker lamps on the car are also unpowered (but grounded) the "other end" of the tail filament now feeds power to all the rest of the bulbs, and through those filaments to ground. Let's say you have a completely normal system, and all you do is unground the socket. If you show passable (11.5, etc is low but passable for this test) voltage, at the tail terminal, and at left/ right with the brake pedal depressed, and voltage, flashing or not, in left or right turn, you can look to harness/ socket problems This explains some of that actionīefore condemming it, move up to the kick panel connector for the rear harness, and back probe the connector under various conditions for joltage. The wiring is all non-molested.ġ-Right socket is not grounded. Green wire at turn signal switch under-dash column plug- 11.7vīrown wire at turn signal switch under-dash column plug- 0v The right stop/signal filament does not light or show voltage under any conditions. Right black tail light wire: 11.7v Brakes on: Right tail filament about 2/3 as bright as left Emergency Flashers on: Right- only tail filament glows dimly Headlights on only: Right- all off Brakes on with headlights off: Right signal/brake filament does nothing Brakes on with headlights on: Left signal/brake filament blinks brightly on and off. When I mention "tail filament" I'm referring to the tail light and not the brake/signal light. I'll try to give as much detail as I can. I'm having some tail light problems and I'm not sure if it's tied into the signal switch, the flasher, headlamp switch or none of the above. 1970 318/auto Dart Swinger standard dash/cluster
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